Meadow sweater

knitting pattern


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The Meadow sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down. First, the yoke is knitted in the round with raglan increases. Then, the back is worked a few rows back and forth to be slightly higher than the front, which provides a better fit.

Sizes

Chest circumference of the finished garment:

  • Size 1 – 99 cm [39″]
  • Size 2 – 103 cm [40½”]
  • Size 3 – 107 cm [42″]

Fit: the sweater is designed to have 10-20 cm [4-8″] of positive ease.

Choose the size according to your chest circumference plus the desired ease.

You will need

Yarn: Aran (8 wpi).

  • Size 1 – approx. 950 m [1038 yds]
  • Size 2 – approx. 1015 m [1110 yds]
  • Size 3 approx. 1080 m [1181 yds]

Circular knitting needles 5 mm [US 8], 80 cm [32″] and 40 cm [16″] long.

Double pointed needles 5 mm [US 8].

Sewing tapestry needle.

Waste yarn.

Row counter.

Suggested yarn:

  • BBB Premiere
  • DROPS Big Merino
  • NAKO Superlambs Special
Gauge (Tension)

In Stockinette stitch:

10 cm [4”] = 20 stitches, 25 rows.

Instructions

The instructions are written for the smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the instructions will be written thus (). Example: size 1(size 2-size 3). If there is only one number given, it applies to all sizes.

Work in pattern (as established) means that you will work as previously stated, without changing the position of the pattern.

BOR – beginning of the round.

K – knit.

K2togL – knit 2 stitches together left leaning (video tutorial).

K2togR – knit 2 stitches together right leaning (video tutorial).

M1L – increase 1 stitch left leaning.

M1R – increase 1 stitch right leaning.

P – purl.

PM – place marker.

RS – right side.

SM – slip the marker.

WS wrong side.

2×2 ribbing: K2, P2. Repeat to the end of the round.

Stitch no.1:

Stitch no.2:

RS: K / WS: P
RS: P / WS: K
Collar

With circular needles 40 cm [16″] long, cast on 104 stitches. Join for working in the round and place BOR marker.

Work 5 cm [2″] in 2×2 ribbing (approx. 15 rounds).

Yoke

Round 1 (increase, set up the markers): SM, * K1, PM, M1L, K35, M1R, PM, K1, PM, M1L, K15, M1R *, PM, repeat from * to * 1 more time. 8 stitches increased.

(here is a video tutorial on how to increase stitches)

These raglan markers indicate the divisions between back, right sleeve, front and left sleeve. 4 stitches located between the markers are the raglan stitches.

Round 2: * SM, K1, SM, work to the marker in Stitch no.1, SM, K1, SM, work to the marker in Stitch no.2 *, repeat from * to * 1 more time.

Round 3 (increase): * SM, K1, SM, M1L, work in pattern to the marker, M1R *, repeat from * to * 3 more times. 8 stitches increased (include the increased stitches in pattern).

Repeat rounds 2-3 until you have 89(93-97) stitches for back and front, and 69(73-77) stitches for the sleeves.

Back yoke shaping

Now, you will work just the stitches of the back in rows. This will give a better fit to your sweater by making the back slightly higher than the front.

Note: the raglan stitches on the sides of the back will form the edge stitches.

Row 1 (RS): slip BOR marker, K1, remove the marker, work in pattern (in Stitch no.1) to the next marker, remove the marker, P1, turn the work.

Row 2 (WS): slip the edge stitch, work in pattern until you have 1 stitch before BOR marker, P1, turn the work.

Rows 3-12: slip the edge stitch, work in pattern until you have 1 stitch left, P the edge stitch.

Make sure you end on a WS row.

Separate back, front and sleeves

Work the back stitches.

Using the sewing needle, place the stitches of the right sleeve on hold onto a waste yarn.

Cast on 3 stitches (use the Backward loop method).

Work the front stitches (including 2 raglan stitches).

Place the stitches of the left sleeve on hold onto a waste yarn.

Cast on 3 stitches.

Place BOR marker.

188(196-204) stitches on the needles.

Body

Work in Stitch no.1 until the body measures 27(26-26) cm [10½(10¼-10¼)”] from the underarms.

Note: include the raglan stitches and the stitches of the underarms in Stitch no.1.

Then, work 5 cm [2″] in 2×2 ribbing.

Cast off.

Right sleeve

With RS facing, place 69(73-77) held stitches back on the needles.

Pick up and knit 5 stitches flom the body at underarm, place BOR marker, pick up and knit 8 stitches along the back edge, work in pattern to the end of the round. 82(86-90) stitches on the needles.

Note: 13 stitches, that you picked up from the underarm and the back will be worked as knit stitches. The rest of the sleeve stitches will be worked as established in Stitch no.2.

✓✓ Rounds 1-10: work in pattern to the end of the round.

* Next round (decrease): SM, K2togL, work in pattern until you have 2 stitches before the marker, K2togR.

Next 15(11-8) rounds: work in pattern to the end of the round. *

Repeat from * to * 3(5-7) more times.

Next round (decrease): SM, K2togL, work in pattern until you have 2 stitches before the marker, K2togR. 72 stitches on the needles.

Continue working in pattern until the sleeve measures 5 cm [2″] shorter than the desired length.

Cuff:

Work 5 cm [2″] in 2×2 ribbing.

Cast off. ✓✓

Left sleeve

With RS facing, place 69(73-77) held stitches back on the needles.

Pick up and knit 8 stitches along the back edge, place BOR marker, pick up and knit 5 stitches flom the body at underarm, work in pattern to the end of the round. 82(86-90) stitches on the needles.

Repeat from ✓✓ to ✓✓ as given for the Right sleeve.

Weave in the loose ends and block your sweater.


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