Willow cardigan

knitting pattern


NOTE: there have been changes in the pattern. The raglan lines for larger sizes have been made shorter and the amount of stitches at the underarms have been increased. The chest circumference of the garment stays the same.

Sizes

Chest circumference of the finished garment:

  • Size 1 – 100 cm [39½”]
  • Size 2 – 110 cm [43¼”]
  • Size 3 – 120 cm [47¼”]

The cardigan is designed to have 15-17 cm [6-7″] of positive ease. Choose the size according to your chest circumference, plus the desired ease.

You will need

Yarn: Worsted (9 wpi). NAKO Superlambs Special. Approx. 970(1130-1290) m [1060(1235-1410) yds].

Circular knitting needles 5 mm [US 8], 80 cm [32″] and 40 cm [16″] long.

4 stitch markers.

Sewing needle.

4 buttons 1.5 cm [½”].

Gauge

In Stockinette stitch:

10 cm [4”] = 19 stitches, 25 rows.

Instructions

The instructions are written for the smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the instructions will be written thus (). Example: size 1(size 2-size 3). If there is only one number given, it applies to all sizes.

Work in pattern (as established) means, that you will work as previously stated, without changing the position of the pattern.

Raglan increases: pick up and knit the left side of the stitch below, slip the marker, pick up and knit the right side of the stitch below.

Stockinette stitch:

  • RS: knit;
  • WS: purl.

Stitch no.2:

RS: K, WS: P
RS: P, WS: K
make a bubble: {K1, Yo, K1} into the same stitch, turn the work, P3, turn the work, K3, pass the first stitch on the right needle through next 2 stitches
Yo
RS: C2L
C2R
Abbreviations

RS – right side.

WS – wrong side.

P – purl.

PM – place marker.

K – knit.

M1L – increase 1 stitch left leaning.

M1R – increase 1 stitch right leaning.

BOR – beginning of the round.

K2togL – knit 2 stitches together left leaning.

K2togR – knit 2 stitches together right leaning.

Yo – yarn over.

C2L – cross 2 stitches to the left.

C2R – cross 2 stitches to the right.

Yoke

Cast on 38 stitches.

Row 1 (WS): slip edge, P1, PM, P4, PM, P26, PM, P4, PM, P1, P edge.

Row 2 (RS): K edge, {K to the marker, work Raglan increases} 4 times, K to the end of the row.

Row 3 (WS): P all stitches.

Repeat rows 2-3 5 more times.

Next row (RS, shape neckline): K edge, K2, M1L, {K to the marker, work raglan increases} 4 times, K until you have 3 stitches, M1R, K2, K edge.

Repeat neckline increases every 4th row 9 more times.

Then, continue working as established until you have 42(46-49) stitches for the fronts, 92(100-106) stitches for the back and 70(78-84) stitches for the sleeves (not including the edge stitches).

Separate body and sleeves

K to the marker.

Using the sewing needle, place 70(78-84) stitches of the sleeve on hold onto a waste yarn.

Cast on 4(6-10) stitches.

K to the marker.

Place 70(78-84) stitches of the sleeve on hold onto a waste yarn.

Cast on 4(6-10) stitches.

K to the end of the row.

Body

Work in Stockinette stitch, until the body measures 29 cm [11½”] from the underarms.

Next 14 rows: K edge, {K1, P1} to the end of the row, P edge.

Italian bind off:

Rows 1-2: slip edge, {slip 1 stitch with yarn in back, P1} repeat to the end of the row, P edge.

✓ Leave the tail approx. 3-4 times longer then the bind off edge, cut the yarn. Thread the tail into a tapestry needle.

  1. Insert the tapestry needle into the first knit stitch, from the back to the front, slip that stitch from the main needle, pull the yarn.
  2. Insert the tapestry needle into the next purl stitch, from the back to the front, slip that stitch from the main needle, pull the yarn.
  3. Insert the tapestry needle into the slipped knit stitch, from the front to the back, and into the next knit stitch, from the back to the front, slip the stitch from the main needle, pull the yarn.
  4. Insert the tapestry needle into the slipped purl stitch, from the front to the back, and into the next purl stitch, from the back to the front, slip the stitch from the main needle, pull the yarn.
  5. Repeat steps 3-4 to the end of the round. ✓
Sleeves

Place 70(78-84) stitches of the sleeve onto 40 cm [16″] circular needles.

Pick up 3(4-6) stitches from the underarm.

Place BOR marker.

Pick up 3(4-6) stitches from the underarm.

Join the yarn.

K to BOR marker.

Next 3 rounds: knit.

Next round (decrease): K1, K2togL, K until you have 3 stitches before marker, K2togR, K1.

Repeat the decrease round every following 7(5-4)th round until you have 54(60-66) stitches.

Then, knit until the sleeve measures 6 cm [2¼”] shorter, than the desired length.

Next 14 rounds: K1, P1.

Italian bind off:

Round 1: K1, slip 1 stitch with yarn in front.

Round 2: slip 1 stitch with yarn in back, P1.

Then, repeat from ✓ to ✓ as given for the Body.

Button band

With the RS facing, pick up stitches along the open edge 234(246-260) stitches), starting from the bottom of the right front.

Rows 1-3: K edge, {K1, P1} to the end of the row, P edge.

Row 4 (RS, create buttonholes): K edge, work 7 stitches in pattern, Yo, K2togR, {work 16 stitches in pattern, Yo, K2togR} 3 times, work in pattern to the end of the row.

Next 4 rows: work in pattern.

Repeat the Italian bind off the same as for the Body.

Pockets

Cast on 30 stitches.

Row 1 (WS): slip edge, P to the end of the row.

Row 2 (RS): slip edge, K4, P3, work Stitch no.2 (start from row 2 of the chart), P3, K4, P edge.

Row 3 (WS): slip edge, P4, K3, work Stitch no.2, K3, P4, P edge.

Continue working as established, repeating rows 2-9 of the Stitch no.2 4 times.

Bind off.

Finishing

Sew on the pockets.

Weave in the loose ends.